In finished trousers or at the fitting stage, the missing width can be obtained by releasing allowances for the side and step seams of the rear halves of the trousers.
But in order to correctly make corrections to the paper pattern, you must first make a model of the trousers on it.
How to properly perform wet-heat treatment of men's trousers
Step 1
First draw a line of direction of the shared thread exactly along the line of the middle of the back half of the trousers.
To expand the pattern, draw two auxiliary dashed lines:
• at the knee level - a horizontal line, exactly at right angles to the line of direction of the shared thread;
• from the top of the tuck to the point of intersection of the direction line of the shared thread and the knee line.
Cut the pattern exactly in the middle of the tuck, then along the auxiliary line to the knee line and then along the knee line close to the side slices.
Step 2
At the top of the tuck, add the missing width by pushing the edges of the cut with a wedge converging at the knee. Draw a new tuck with the top exactly in the center of the increase. If necessary, add a little width along the stepping slice.
How to reduce the pattern
Step 3
To lengthen the pattern through the top of the tuck, draw an auxiliary horizontal line perpendicular to the direction line of the shared thread.Then draw a vertical line in the middle between the side cut and the tuck. Cut the pattern along the horizontal line from the line of the back middle close to the side cut and along the vertical line from the top cut close to the horizontal cut. Extend the edges of the horizontal section with a wedge by the amount of elongation: 1–2 cm along the rear middle seam, another 0.5–1 cm at the vertical section. Do not add anything along the side cut. Thanks to this increase, the necessary second tuck appears at the vertical section. Since the initial tuck has become very deep due to the increase in width, it should be reduced by half the increase and expand the new tuck by the same amount. Draw a new tuck 2-3 cm shorter than the original. Align side cut. Extend the line of direction of the shared thread from the bottom of the pattern to the upper cut. The old line of direction of the shared thread at the top of the pattern is now invalid.
Source and illustration: Burda special issue. Fashion for the full 1/2018
