How to adjust the shoulder line in accordance with the features of the figure: straight or sloping shoulders, wide or narrow shoulders, the line of the shoulder seam, shifted back or forward.
All adjustments are best done by stitching the probe (or mock) of the product. What is a probe, why is it needed, how and from which to sew it - read here.
To adjust you will need:
- product layout;
- finished pattern on paper and paper for adjustment;
- paper scissors;
- a pencil;
- tape measure;
- ruler;
- paper glue.
How to align the hem: tricks and tips
1. Straight or sloping shoulders
1.1 Changing the pattern for straight shoulders
What does it look like:
If the shoulders are less oblique than the pattern suggests, excess tissue will form folds on the chest.
How to adjust:
Attach the part of the shelf to yourself and align it so that it lies evenly without forming an extra volume. find the extra piece and measure it, this will be the value by which you will need to change the pattern. Put this distance on the pattern of the shelf, as shown in the first figure, and cut the pattern along this line. Move part of the pattern up, as shown in the second figure, and adjust the shoulder line. Repeat to pattern the back.
How to reduce or increase the pattern of Burda by 1-2 sizes
1.2 Changing the pattern for sloping shoulders
What does it look like:
If the shoulders are more sloping than the pattern suggests, the fabric will form folds between the neck and armhole.
How to adjust:
Attach the part of the shelf to you and align it, smoothing the folds. Measure how much you need to adjust the pattern. Set aside this distance on the pattern, as shown in the first figure, and cut the pattern along this line. Move the cut part down and adjust the lines as shown in the second figure.
Sewing school: transferring darts
2. The line of the shoulder seam, shifted forward or backward
2.1 shoulder line shifted back
What does it look like:
The shoulder seam should go in the center of the shoulder (see right figure). It moves back if the shoulders are tilted forward. In this case, tension may be felt in the back area, and the bottom line will be tilted forward (in front the thing will be longer than in the back).
How to adjust:
Measure how far the shoulder line should be. Mark this width on the pattern of the shelf (see the figure), cut off part of the pattern and transfer it to the back pattern.
Please note: if the line of the shoulder seam falls at the desired point in the neck and deviates only at the outer point, you need to adjust the pattern by cutting off part diagonally, and not directly.
If the sleeve of the model is assumed to be sufficiently adjacent, also adjust the pattern of the sleeve. The easiest way to do this is to cut the sleeve pattern perpendicular to the lobar, as shown in the figure, shift it to the same distance by which the shoulder line was offset, and draw a new line of okat.
Full hands: customize the pattern
2.2. Shoulder line forward
What does it look like:
In this case, the fabric tension will be felt in front, and the bottom line will be tilted back (in front the thing will be shorter than in the back).
How to adjust:
Measure how far the shoulder line should be. Mark this width on the pattern of the back, cut off this part of the pattern and transfer it to the pattern of the shelf.
If necessary, also adjust the sleeve pattern. Cut the pattern as shown in the figure, move the upper part to the same distance that the shoulder line was moved and draw a new line of okat.
Narrow back
3. Wide or narrow shoulders
You can check how much the width of the shoulders coincides with the measurements by which the pattern is built, before trying on the product’s layout, even at the patterning stage. Measure your width of the shoulders of the front and back, divide the resulting value by 2 and compare with the width of the shelves and half of the back.
3.1 Changing the pattern for narrow shoulders
What does it look like:
For narrow shoulders, a sleeveless model may fall off the shoulders, while for a model with sleeves, the shoulder line may appear to be deflated, while this was not initially envisaged.
How to adjust:
An easy way is to adjust the shoulder width using the pattern line for a smaller size (just by drawing a smooth line). But this method may result in a not very good landing in the area of the bust and armhole.
The second method is shown in the figures above. Cut the shelf pattern as shown in the photo (do not cut the corners, it will be easier to work). Then move the cut parts to the desired distance, as shown in the figure. Adjust the back as well.
Small bust
3.2 Changing the pattern for wide shoulders
What does it look like:
If the shoulders are wider than the pattern suggests, the thing can pull in the shoulder area, the sleeve will rise.
How to adjust:
An easy way is to adjust the shoulder width using the larger pattern line.
A slightly more complex but accurate method is shown in the figures above. Cut the pattern of the shelf as shown in the figure (do not cut the corners to the end). Move the parts to the desired distance and draw new lines. repeat to pattern the back.
Photo and source: mellysews.com, helenscloset. ca
